Henry Peter Karstens

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Henry Peter Karstens (1878-November 28, 1955), known as Harry, was the first superintendent of Denali National Park (then known as Mount McKinley National Park), from 1921 to 1928. He was also the climbing leader of the first complete ascent of Mount McKinley in 1913, along with Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, and Robert Tatum. Harry Karstens was born in Chicago, and came to Alaska as part of the Klondike gold rush in 1897. Wikipedia
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